The Train to/from Hell

I have taken trains on 4 continents in a variety of countries. After a disgusting night train experience in Thailand 6 years ago, I should have known better than to book a night train on Vietnam rails from Nha Trang to Hue. It was the most unsavory experience of the trip so far. Poor Mara was in utter disbelief when we boarded the disgusting car and saw that we would be sharing our dirty sleeping berth with two Vietnamese women and their crying baby. I at least had my sleep sack (instead of the stained linens provided) in which I was able to coccoon myself and try not to touch anything. The smell, the noise, the grime, and the flickering flourescent light above made sleep almost impossible.
In the morning we switched to a seat in another car which we thought would be better....it was not. It was even grimier and smellier with old men smoking and a questionable food cart wheeling through the aisles. Definitely an adventure. However, the morning views from the train were breathtaking. Reminiscent of the PCH and Big Sur, there were small secluded beaches and waves crashing in on the rocks. Small fishing boats dotted the horizon and water buffalo roamed through the rie paddies as the morning sun came up.....made it easy to forget the discomfort of the train.