Chicken Buses

On Monday morning I packed up my things and left the comforts of Don Ismael. I was headed to Lago Atitlan, a ginormous lake surrounded by volcanoes in the highlands. I had decided that rather than book the $10 shuttle bus ride directly there, I would experience the local way and take the chicken bus. So with my big pack, I jumped on the first bus. It seemed fine. I put my pack upon the rack above my head and took a seat. As we went around town, the bus got more and more full but still, I was the only gringo. We set out on the highway, packed to the gills and still I was the only gringo. With the crucifix on the dash and the music blaring, we twisted and turned through the hills at breakneck speed. I recall saying to the woman next to me Que suerte, tenemos sillas (How lucky we have seats!). A half hour later we rolled into the first major stop (for all others the bus merely slows down while people literally jump on and off). I quickly grabbed my bag and got off the bus. I was told that the connecting bus was across the street so I scurried across and jumped on just as it was about to take off. Before I could even get a look for a seat the bus tore away and I was thrown back. Again, I was the only gringo, the bus was like a giant can of sardines packed so tightly that no one could move. After bashing some poor man in the head with my pack (disculpeme senor) the driver's assistant took my bag and stored it in the front for me. I don't think it was as much to be nice to me as it was to spare the poor elderly man from being nailed again. So there I stood at the front of the bus, unable to sit, unable to move, with about 120 eyeballs staring at the crazy gringa for over an hour. After 4 buses in total I made it to Panajachel on the edge of Lake Atitlan. I never saw another gringo the entire way. This is strange to me because generally there are backpackers everywhere. It makes me wonder if I should have booked a shuttle. It was fantastic people watching though and I made it through with no real trouble....Like the signs on the bus said...I guess Jesus Christo really was with us!!