The Road to Machupicchu

I don´t know if I can begin to explain the anxiety I was feeling as we set out to begin the Inca Trail. All of those happy hours and couch potato evenings seemed such a mistake as the guide began to describe the physical activity required over the following days. I had my gear from REI and my camera ready to capture the views, but were my legs and lungs ready for the journey before me? At this point, there really was no turning back. The sheer embarrassment of returning to tell my traveler friends that I wussed out and took the train compelled me to march onward.

Fortunately, day one wasn´t so bad. It was a little up and a little down with breaks to take in the ruins and their significance along the way (Salapunku, Llactapata, Wayllabamba). Much to our surprise, the porters that join each group really offer first class service. Don´t get me wrong, squat toilets and lack of running water are no picnic. But before you even arrive in camp the porters set up a dinning tent complete with table cloth and napkin holders. They great you at the trail with a glass of juice and they carry the bulk of all your gear. These men carry HUGE packs along the trail and pass you at neckbreak speeds. It´s really unbelievable.

After making it through day 1 we camped our first night and comfortably rested for the following day. Again, anxiety set in. Day two of the trail is the worst. You climb uphill for 5 hours before descending to the next camp. It´s called Dead Woman´s Pass for the sillouette of the mountain pass from a distance (you pass just to the left of her boob) but I was sure that it derived it´s name from the number of women, such as myself, that had never made it. It was incredibly painful but I did actually make it and surprisingly was toward the middle of my group. My legs were definitely jelly but it was the altitude that really took it´s toll. Those last 1000 or so stone steps at 13,000 feet with no railing were dizzying.

Day three we did two more passes that were somewhat easier, although still a challenge. The trail was more up and down and a lot more pleasurable. Had it not been for contracting ¨travelers sickness¨ on this day it would have been really enjoyable (hiking with a bad stomach is not good. we´ll leave it at that.) We passed several ruins (Runkuraqay, Sayamarca, Phuyupatamarca) and also managed to see a few of the wild orchids along the way.

Day four was the grand finale. We got up at 4am to make it to the sun gate before sunrise and it was worth it! We arrived at Intipunku about a half an hour before sunrise and saw Machu Picchu in the shadows of the valley below us. We sat quietly and watched as the sun slowly came over the mountain tops and drenched the terraces in sunlight. This alone made the pain of the journey worth while. Due to a landslide in the trail (currently being repaired), only those hikers that came via the Inca Trail were able to visit this spot. The remainder of the day was spent touring and exploring the ruins themselves. I also pushed my physical limits one more time and climbed the vertical trail to Huayna Picchu (unbelievable views).

We ventured back to Cusco at the end of the day via Aguas Calientes on the bus, then train, then van. I don´t think I´ve ever been so appreciative of a luke warm shower.