Wrapping it up in Phnom Penh

Over the past two days I've really taken to Phnom Penh and Cambodia in general. The tropical climate is beautiful (maybe a little hot at midday), the food has been phenomenal (I'm addicted to amok and Khmer curries) and the people are friendly and outgoing. Phnom Penh has a great riverfront area, cafe culture, arts and architecture and the Buddhist monks bring a sense of tranquility to the city. This, however, is a country in recovery mode. The people here have been to hell and back thanks to the Khmer Rouge.

I spoke with an interesting man in the park this morning. There is so much poverty and so many people begging that you have to tune it out it a bit. You can't buy what everyone is selling or hand out money to every beggar....there are just too many. However, the man this morning caught my attention. He didn't beg. He didn't pull on my arm or stand in my path. He simply asked if I'd like to sit down with him. He was kind and soft spoken, not pushy and his English was impeccable. Many of the people on the streets here have learned a few lines in English in order to be more endearing to the Western passers by, but this man was different. So I sat down with him and listened to his story. True or not, it was an interesting story and he deserved my few bucks just for being a pleasant conversationalist. He had come into the city from his village to find work but no one would take him because, at 60, he was too old to hire. I asked him where he learned to speak English....he responded that he had learned much when the American soldiers were in Cambodia for the war in Vietnam but mostly, he had had private tutors. Before the Khmer Rouge, his family had money and he had been educated. I only chatted with this man for a short time and then gave him a few bucks for his bus ticket home (or whatever he chose to use it for). It wasn't until later in the day, after I had visited the Tuol Sleng Musuem(recounting the many atrocities of the Khmer Rouge) that his story really sunk in. Again, whether it was BS or not, it made me think. The man I met had somehow been educated, lived a stable, hard-working, happy life and then one of his own countrymen, rose to power, took away his freedom, instilled fear and distrust in the people and sent the entire country into a seemingly endless downward spiral. After nearly 30 years they are still recovering.

Tomb Raiding at Angkor

From Hanoi we flew directly to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Unfortunately our plans to stop in Luang Prabang, Laos were thwarted by overbooked flights. Siem Reap is a nice respite from the city buzz of Hanoi. We're back to tropical air and minimal traffic. Our first night was a bit sketchy but by the next morning we had settled into a nice mid-range hotel, booked a tuk-tuk driver for the day and enjoyed a fresh fruit breakfast before heading to the temples of Angkor.

For as many castles, temples, ruins, etc. that I've seen, I have to say, Angkor tops the list. It is absolutely incredible. As Mara said, "everytime you turn a corner or pass through another chamber, it's another National Geographic photo right in front of you." It's true, I had no idea of the enormity and number of temples and complexes there are, each uniquely styled and magnificent in its own right. For the past two days we've photographed, explored, climbed, soaked in, and photographed some more through a major part of the Angkor complex. It really is pretty Laura Croft bad-ass tomb raider!

As a side note to the temples of Angkor....I'm pretty sure I'm doomed to some seriously bad karma. I chased countless monks around the ruins in order to snap the perfect photos. I admire these men and their dedication to spirituality and learning. They're such beautiful and peaceful beings and their saffron robes are absolutely gorgeous. I hope they'll forgive my fascination and intrusion.

The other wonderful thing about Siem Reap and Cambodia is the food. It has been fantastic! Khmer curries, Amok with fish and chicken, stir frys of all kinds.....it's all amazing and we've been eating like pigs. Hoping we find some great places in Phnom Penh as well.

Today is my day off, time to catch up on the blog and emails, get a tropical massage, eat nachos and a margarita (yes, there's a mexican restaurant here!) and have a pedicure. Siem Reap is ridiculously touristy but oh so relaxing and much more comfortable. Tomorrow we're off to Phnom Penh for a couple of days and then it's back home to the real world.

One last note on the people of Cambodia....I've only been here a few days but it is evident that they are much friendlier and laid back than in Vietnam. Everyone smiles and says good morning, staff at the hotel and elsewhere ask questions and want to practice their English. While we ran into a little of this in Vietnam, it seems that Cambodians a more out going in their friendliness. They're peaceful, yet inquisitive. I'm definitely looking forward to meeting more people here (outside of the street children selling postcards and relentless tuk-tuk drivers).

So Long 2007, Ha Long 2008!

We ran in the new year in majestic Ha Long Bay, Vietnam from the deck of the Classic Sails junk. We were fortunate to have one of the nicest boats on the bay and, more importantly, a great group of people: 2 young couples and a family of 4 from Australia, a gay couple from Hong Kong and two little old ladies from Tokyo along with our Vietnamese guide, Thuang. We had great laughs with the Australian couples and even caught up with them again back in Hanoi. The best was seeing the little old ladies from Tokyo out there exploring though. One of them was pushing at least 80! They hung right in there with a great sense of humor. I can only hope to be like them as I move on in years.

It's a 3.5 hour drive from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay off the northern coast of Vietnam. It's one of the most popular tourist attractions in the region, and rightfully so. Ha Long Bay is an absolute natural wonder, even when filled with tourist boats. We were greeted on our boat with a welcome drink and a 7 course lunch including fish, crab, squid, chicken, soups, salads, beef, and fresh fruit. After lunch we explored an enormous cave in the limestone karsts and then climbed to the top of one of the karsts to enjoy a view of the bay.

That night we had a huge dinner with great conversation and then rang in the new year out on the bay. You could hear the countdowns and celebrations from the other boats and some even had fireworks (illegal). Not a bad way to ring in 2008.

On New Year's morning we were blessed with gorgeous sunshine and slightly warmer weather to go out kayaking around the bay, through caves and into quiet grottoes. It was phenomenal! Happy 2008 to all!!