The Spice of Life

Wrapping it up in Phnom Penh

2008-01-07T03:45:00.000-08:00

Over the past two days I've really taken to Phnom Penh and Cambodia in general. The tropical climate is beautiful (maybe a little hot at midday), the food has been phenomenal (I'm addicted to amok and Khmer curries) and the people are friendly and outgoing. Phnom Penh has a great riverfront area, cafe culture, arts and architecture and the Buddhist monks bring a sense of tranquility to the city. This, however, is a country in recovery mode. The people here have been to hell and back thanks to the Khmer Rouge.

I spoke with an interesting man in the park this morning. There is so much poverty and so many people begging that you have to tune it out it a bit. You can't buy what everyone is selling or hand out money to every beggar....there are just too many. However, the man this morning caught my attention. He didn't beg. He didn't pull on my arm or stand in my path. He simply asked if I'd like to sit down with him. He was kind and soft spoken, not pushy and his English was impeccable. Many of the people on the streets here have learned a few lines in English in order to be more endearing to the Western passers by, but this man was different. So I sat down with him and listened to his story. True or not, it was an interesting story and he deserved my few bucks just for being a pleasant conversationalist. He had come into the city from his village to find work but no one would take him because, at 60, he was too old to hire. I asked him where he learned to speak English....he responded that he had learned much when the American soldiers were in Cambodia for the war in Vietnam but mostly, he had had private tutors. Before the Khmer Rouge, his family had money and he had been educated. I only chatted with this man for a short time and then gave him a few bucks for his bus ticket home (or whatever he chose to use it for). It wasn't until later in the day, after I had visited the Tuol Sleng Musuem(recounting the many atrocities of the Khmer Rouge) that his story really sunk in. Again, whether it was BS or not, it made me think. The man I met had somehow been educated, lived a stable, hard-working, happy life and then one of his own countrymen, rose to power, took away his freedom, instilled fear and distrust in the people and sent the entire country into a seemingly endless downward spiral. After nearly 30 years they are still recovering.

Tomb Raiding at Angkor

2008-01-04T20:28:00.000-08:00

From Hanoi we flew directly to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Unfortunately our plans to stop in Luang Prabang, Laos were thwarted by overbooked flights. Siem Reap is a nice respite from the city buzz of Hanoi. We're back to tropical air and minimal traffic. Our first night was a bit sketchy but by the next morning we had settled into a nice mid-range hotel, booked a tuk-tuk driver for the day and enjoyed a fresh fruit breakfast before heading to the temples of Angkor.

For as many castles, temples, ruins, etc. that I've seen, I have to say, Angkor tops the list. It is absolutely incredible. As Mara said, "everytime you turn a corner or pass through another chamber, it's another National Geographic photo right in front of you." It's true, I had no idea of the enormity and number of temples and complexes there are, each uniquely styled and magnificent in its own right. For the past two days we've photographed, explored, climbed, soaked in, and photographed some more through a major part of the Angkor complex. It really is pretty Laura Croft bad-ass tomb raider!

As a side note to the temples of Angkor....I'm pretty sure I'm doomed to some seriously bad karma. I chased countless monks around the ruins in order to snap the perfect photos. I admire these men and their dedication to spirituality and learning. They're such beautiful and peaceful beings and their saffron robes are absolutely gorgeous. I hope they'll forgive my fascination and intrusion.

The other wonderful thing about Siem Reap and Cambodia is the food. It has been fantastic! Khmer curries, Amok with fish and chicken, stir frys of all kinds.....it's all amazing and we've been eating like pigs. Hoping we find some great places in Phnom Penh as well.

Today is my day off, time to catch up on the blog and emails, get a tropical massage, eat nachos and a margarita (yes, there's a mexican restaurant here!) and have a pedicure. Siem Reap is ridiculously touristy but oh so relaxing and much more comfortable. Tomorrow we're off to Phnom Penh for a couple of days and then it's back home to the real world.

One last note on the people of Cambodia....I've only been here a few days but it is evident that they are much friendlier and laid back than in Vietnam. Everyone smiles and says good morning, staff at the hotel and elsewhere ask questions and want to practice their English. While we ran into a little of this in Vietnam, it seems that Cambodians a more out going in their friendliness. They're peaceful, yet inquisitive. I'm definitely looking forward to meeting more people here (outside of the street children selling postcards and relentless tuk-tuk drivers).

So Long 2007, Ha Long 2008!

2008-01-04T20:11:00.000-08:00

We ran in the new year in majestic Ha Long Bay, Vietnam from the deck of the Classic Sails junk. We were fortunate to have one of the nicest boats on the bay and, more importantly, a great group of people: 2 young couples and a family of 4 from Australia, a gay couple from Hong Kong and two little old ladies from Tokyo along with our Vietnamese guide, Thuang. We had great laughs with the Australian couples and even caught up with them again back in Hanoi. The best was seeing the little old ladies from Tokyo out there exploring though. One of them was pushing at least 80! They hung right in there with a great sense of humor. I can only hope to be like them as I move on in years.

It's a 3.5 hour drive from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay off the northern coast of Vietnam. It's one of the most popular tourist attractions in the region, and rightfully so. Ha Long Bay is an absolute natural wonder, even when filled with tourist boats. We were greeted on our boat with a welcome drink and a 7 course lunch including fish, crab, squid, chicken, soups, salads, beef, and fresh fruit. After lunch we explored an enormous cave in the limestone karsts and then climbed to the top of one of the karsts to enjoy a view of the bay.

That night we had a huge dinner with great conversation and then rang in the new year out on the bay. You could hear the countdowns and celebrations from the other boats and some even had fireworks (illegal). Not a bad way to ring in 2008.

On New Year's morning we were blessed with gorgeous sunshine and slightly warmer weather to go out kayaking around the bay, through caves and into quiet grottoes. It was phenomenal! Happy 2008 to all!!

Happy in Hanoi

2007-12-29T23:02:00.000-08:00

After schlepping through the old quarter to 5 different hotels we finally found a little place to stay in Hanoi. A young boy and his friend took us there on motor bikes and checked us in assuring that the tea, coffee and bananas were free and that this was the place to be (at least for $15 a night it was). Hanoi is a bustling city much like Saigon with motorcycles every where and bustling dirty streets, but with a big difference...It has exquisite character! Unlike Saigon, you can see the French colonial influence; the architecture in the old quarter, the little old men with fu man chus in the park wearing berets, and, best of all, the pastries! The city is has much more cafe culture than Saigon and, while chaotic, it has peaceful little pockets with parks and temples.

This morning we took in a water puppet show. I have to admit, I didn't expect much for the $2.50 ticket but was pleasantly surprised with an entertaining little show including live traditional music and singing. The short puppet performances were silly and fun, definitely worth the price.

Tomorrow we're off on a two day boat cruise in Halong Bay. Hoping the weather gets a little nicer....it's been cold (around 60?) and gray since we've gotten to Hanoi.

Colonial Hue and War Reminders

2007-12-27T22:54:00.000-08:00

Hue is a colonial city that's much more well-kept and clean (at least in parts) than the other cities we've visited so far, at least on the more touristed south bank of the river. On the north bank is the old Citadel and the Imperial City of the Nguyen Dynasty. Today we wandered throughout the old Citadel, Imperial City and the emperor's Forbidden City enclosure. It was beautiful but more striking was the daily life and residential area within the Citadel.

Throughout the trip so far, Mara and I have avoided the war era tourist attractions. We could have visited the tunnels outside of Saigon but chose not to. Here in Hue, we're only a few miles from the DMZ and China Beach but again, we've chosen not visit these places. However, everywhere you go, you're reminded of the atrocities of the war and our country's presence here. It was before my time but yet I'm struck by the history and what it might have been like. Today, walking along the street there were vendors selling old dug up paraphenalia from the war: canteens, badges and medals, detonated hand grenades and most disturbing, dog tags with American soldiers' names. As we walked to the Forbidden City we passed a museum with old tanks and guns out front. You can't help but wonder what life was like for these people as the Americans bombed much of the city. It's unavoidable.

The Train to/from Hell

2007-12-27T22:38:00.000-08:00

I have taken trains on 4 continents in a variety of countries. After a disgusting night train experience in Thailand 6 years ago, I should have known better than to book a night train on Vietnam rails from Nha Trang to Hue. It was the most unsavory experience of the trip so far. Poor Mara was in utter disbelief when we boarded the disgusting car and saw that we would be sharing our dirty sleeping berth with two Vietnamese women and their crying baby. I at least had my sleep sack (instead of the stained linens provided) in which I was able to coccoon myself and try not to touch anything. The smell, the noise, the grime, and the flickering flourescent light above made sleep almost impossible.
In the morning we switched to a seat in another car which we thought would be better....it was not. It was even grimier and smellier with old men smoking and a questionable food cart wheeling through the aisles. Definitely an adventure. However, the morning views from the train were breathtaking. Reminiscent of the PCH and Big Sur, there were small secluded beaches and waves crashing in on the rocks. Small fishing boats dotted the horizon and water buffalo roamed through the rie paddies as the morning sun came up.....made it easy to forget the discomfort of the train.

Good (Christmas) Morning Vietnam!!

2007-12-27T22:20:00.000-08:00

After our long day on the Mekong, we boarded a "luxury" night train to Nha Trang on Christmas eve. We had paid extra to take the "5 Star Express" overnight train for Christmas. For our $40 we got a private, relatively clean sleeping berth, a nicer bathroom facility (better than European trains), a piece of coconut cake and coffee service in the morning. It was a rather pleasant experience. Christmas morning we watched the sunrise over the rice paddies from the window as we ate our coconut cake.

We arrived in Nha Trang around 8am on Christmas morning and checked into our hotel. It was a comfortable little place with a gorgeous rooftop terrace, AC and satellite TV ($15 per night). We had a fantastic breakfast and spent the rest day between the beach and the rooftop terrace.

Nha Trang is a bigger city than expected. The beach is gorgeous but the motorcycles still buzz, honk, swerve through the streets there. It resembles any other small western beach resort (think Mexico). We found a great little cafe that we frequented during our two day stay (pretty much ate breakfast lunch and dinner there for two days). Cafe des Amis had delicious, fresh baked baguettes with eggs and cheese, fresh fruit salads, stir frys with lemon grass and chili, fried fish, spring rolls, fresh fruit shakes....and best of all, we discovered the banana pancakes with chocolate sauce and ice cream! The owner was nice, the food was superb and we made new friends at the "cafe of friends".

Christmas on the Mekong

2007-12-27T21:51:00.000-08:00

On Christmas eve day we set out on a day trip on the Mekong River. It started with a bus ride that was supposed to be 1 1/2 hrs to the delta region south of Saigon. To our dismay, the bus was 1/2 hr late and the ride closer to 3 hrs. long. Finally we reached a small city along the river called My Tho where we boarded our boat. We were supposed to see a floating market along the river but we were so late that it had already ended.
On either side of the river were ramshackled and run down shacks on stilts where people live. There's laundry hanging out and children playing in the muddy water. The poverty is striking. In typical tour group fashion, we were carted about the town and fed information about the local population. We stopped to see coconut candy, rice paper and puffed rice being made by the local people. While interesting, it's overrun with tourists and hawkers.

We set out for our lunch destination on an island in the river but were quickly thwarted by the low tide. Our boat was stuck and required a slow and painful tow from another boat for over an hour. What started out as quite comical had turned sour in the hot afternoon sun. We got off our broken down boat and boarded small dug out row boats. Little Vietnamese women with conical hats rowed us down a small canal. We finally reached our lunch destination well into the afternoon. It may have just been our intense hunger but lunch was actually delicious! (fried pork with rice and steamed vegetables, chicken soup, spring rolls, and fresh fruit)

We bicycled from our lunch spot to the river where our boat was again waiting (with a tow boat) to take us back to the bus for a 3 hr. ride to Saigon. While interesting and photo worthy the day was a serious excercise of patience and "rolling with the punches". Lesson learned: Do not book full-day group tours of any sort.

Motorcycle Madness

2007-12-23T14:49:00.000-08:00

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) is by far the most chaotic and overwhelming place I have ever experienced. The sheer number of motos and scooters (many carrying a family of 3 or 4) is mind boggling and also a matter of death defiance when attempting to cross a 4 lane street. We wandered the city taking in the "sights" yesterday (unsure if you'd call the 70'style archtecture of the reunification palace a "sight") Silly (and sleep deprived) girls that we were, we got ripped off by the first pedi -cab ride we took. After that it was big bowls of bun at the famed Pho 2000 (Where President Clinton ate) and then $3 massages at the institute for the blind (they are trained in massage to make a living).
Thanks to Dylan for the reco about the Rex Hotel (an old war era hotel) rooftop. We had a fantastic cocktail at sundown and watched the motorcyle madness below.

I have always thought, and even prided myself on the idea that I could,and would, live and work anywhere in the world. That notion has now been challenged. It was a sad and startling realization for me that there are places in this world that I just couldn't hack it. Saigon is one of them.

Journey of 1000 sneezes (and one big snore)

2007-12-23T14:42:00.000-08:00

After a grueling week of studying and finals (ie sleep deprivation) and the roller coaster of recruiting news it was finally time to begin our long journey around the world. Other than a little turbulence, an alarming number of sneezers that didn't cover and one VERY loud snorer we made it to Ho Chi Minh in relative comfort in roughly 24 hours.

Monkey Love

2006-11-26T13:21:00.000-08:00

This morning I got up just before dawn and ventured out into the jungle to see the sun rise over the ancient Mayan ruins of Tikal. The ruins are absolutely impressive, rising up above the canopy of the jungle, but the best part of the whole gig was watching the monkeys. I spent at least an hour watching a family of spider monkeys swing their way through the branches directly over my head (note: this makes for a stiff neck). I've seen monkeys in Costa Rica and the Amazon basin but nothing like this. They were all over the place and so close! The monkey kings simply swing around these amazing ruins enjoying their lives.....it makes me want to be a monkey.

My Guatemalan adventure is coming to an end. I've spent the last few days in El Petén...including a visit to Flores on Lake Peten Itza and some time at Tikal exploring the ruins (and the monkeys). Tomorrow it's back to Guate, then Houston, then Minneapolis....and finally, back to work on bright and early on Tues. Goodbye my monkey friends!

El Lago

2006-11-22T09:38:00.000-08:00

For the last few days I've been enjoying a little lakeside relaxation. After the chicken buses, I checked into a fantastic little place in Panajachel. I feel a little guilty....I had a private hot shower and cable TV (I even watched Oprah on Monday!). The lake is absolutely breathtaking. There's no way for a piss-poor writer like myself to describe the unbelievable beauty of it...every viewpoint, every time of day.

On Monday evening while trying my damnedest to get the perfect sunset shot, I met Manav and Amit. They're Indian but have lived in NYC for the last 5 years.....and were traveling through Guate for a couple of weeks. I have to mention them specifically because their stories were so hilarious. They had rented a motorbike in Antigua and set out to Atitlan and then were going to drive across the entire country to Flores and Tikal (about 10 hours non-stop). In their first day they had already blown a tire and lost their brakes. Their story was really more of a farce based upon the motorcycle diaries but without any kind of philosophical, change the world kind of politics. They had also been ripped off for some really bad weed in Pana. They were just damn funny guys. I really hope they make it to Flores...I'd like to catch up with them on Friday.

Back to my exploration of the lake....So far, I've been to Pana (pretty much a tourist hole), the market in Solola (really fantastic - all of the locals come into town for market day dressed in their traditional clothing- authentic in comparison to others), an afternoon in Santiago Atitlan (a boatride across the lake - Also a hole) and now I'm in San Pedro. Pedro is a big stoner, backpacker hang out. While the views of the lake are fantastic, the town in general is gringo-ville and everywhere you turn you get the hard sell for something. Later today I'm off to San Marcos and then back to Pana for the night (and the nice hotel-oh the guilt!) Tomorrow I leave the highlands to go back to Antigua....I'm kind of looking forward to it.

Chicken Buses

2006-11-22T09:15:00.000-08:00

On Monday morning I packed up my things and left the comforts of Don Ismael. I was headed to Lago Atitlan, a ginormous lake surrounded by volcanoes in the highlands. I had decided that rather than book the $10 shuttle bus ride directly there, I would experience the local way and take the chicken bus. So with my big pack, I jumped on the first bus. It seemed fine. I put my pack upon the rack above my head and took a seat. As we went around town, the bus got more and more full but still, I was the only gringo. We set out on the highway, packed to the gills and still I was the only gringo. With the crucifix on the dash and the music blaring, we twisted and turned through the hills at breakneck speed. I recall saying to the woman next to me Que suerte, tenemos sillas (How lucky we have seats!). A half hour later we rolled into the first major stop (for all others the bus merely slows down while people literally jump on and off). I quickly grabbed my bag and got off the bus. I was told that the connecting bus was across the street so I scurried across and jumped on just as it was about to take off. Before I could even get a look for a seat the bus tore away and I was thrown back. Again, I was the only gringo, the bus was like a giant can of sardines packed so tightly that no one could move. After bashing some poor man in the head with my pack (disculpeme senor) the driver's assistant took my bag and stored it in the front for me. I don't think it was as much to be nice to me as it was to spare the poor elderly man from being nailed again. So there I stood at the front of the bus, unable to sit, unable to move, with about 120 eyeballs staring at the crazy gringa for over an hour. After 4 buses in total I made it to Panajachel on the edge of Lake Atitlan. I never saw another gringo the entire way. This is strange to me because generally there are backpackers everywhere. It makes me wonder if I should have booked a shuttle. It was fantastic people watching though and I made it through with no real trouble....Like the signs on the bus said...I guess Jesus Christo really was with us!!

Tierra del Fuego

2006-11-22T08:43:00.000-08:00

Again I was up before the crack of dawn. I sat in the street outside la casa de Don Ismael looking up at Volcan Agua in the morning light while waiting for my shuttle to Pacaya. Pacaya is an active volcano about 1 1/2 from Antigua that continuously erupts, creating incredible lava flows. Since my shuttle was late (of course) I was in the street for some time chatting with the locals, who were also waiting for their bus, and a boy who just happened by with his goats (I wish I could remember their names- They were such nice goats). One of the gentlemen who was chatting me up was from El Salvador. To most Americans, I think Central America seems like a big conglomerate of poor countries with beaches and bananas. If you've traveled here though, and chatted with a few folks, you know that's not the case. It's always interesting to me to hear different perspectives. For example, if you talk with someone from Costa Rica, they will tell you that Nicaraguans are lazy and uneducated and they come across the border to take jobs. This man that I spoke to went on to tell me how terrible El Salvador is and that life is so much better in Guate.....the youth of Salvador do drugs and drink and rob you blind. It's fascinating to me to hear about these rivalries, opinions and matters of national pride.

So, on to Pacaya.... I'd seen Thomas' pictures of Pacaya but it was so much more incredible to see first hand. Pictures can't do justice to it. We had a short hike up to the edge of the lava flows (as little as 3 months ago they had flattened a part of the hillside). Then you start climbing on the actual cooled lava. It's sharp and it crunches under your feet. As you hike along you hit spots where you can hear that it's hollow underneath....at one time hot molten lava had flown through and left just a crust for you to walk on. Some places are hardened and secure, others crunch and move each time you step. As you get up further, you can start to feel the heat coming from the rocks. Walking along it's fine and then you step over a crevice and feel the intense heat coming from it....it's unbelievable! We were able to get up close to moving lava flows that glowed red and radiated intense heat. It was really a fantastic experience.

Paraiso de Mochilleros

2006-11-22T08:13:00.000-08:00

As with so many "third world" places I've been, there was a rooster to wake me up this morning. No worries though. I definitely could have used the rest but I was so excited to get out and explore in the morning sunlight. What I really wanted was to take some pictures with great light and less cars, people, noise, etc. I certainly got what I asked for. Antigua is even more beautiful before the gringos come out.

The city is truly a backpackers paradise. You can get tacos, curry, or hummus and cheap drinks at hundreds of places. There's internet on every corner and just about anything you could every need can be obtained cheaply. However, all of this is in the context of beautiful Spanish colonial architecture, in the shadows of three enormous volcanoes and among friendly, smiling Guatemalan locals. It's no wonder that people come here and never leave.

I spent the rest of the day exploring Antigua and hiking up el cerro de la cruz (the hill of the cross) for a great view of the city. I also met some more people and made plans to hook up later for a music festival outside of town. Called Jamtigua, it was an all day concert put on by a local radio station and sponsored by Gallo (Guate beer). Elizabeth (the girl from day 1), Pedro (Peter from London that I met at the cross) and a German girl (Catherine?) all hopped in a tuk tuk and headed out of town to experience la musica.

It was quite a production. Just like what you'd see in the states...A big sound and light stage, ticket booths, and beer stands that only take tickets. The crowd was pretty mixed with foreign backpackers and locals (more on the side of the backpackers) but it was really pretty fun. The music ranged from Mayan folk singers to German rock to Salvadorian drummers. This is also where I met Juan Carlos, supposedly a lawyer from Guate but pretty much your typical "Latin lover"....not a bad kisser though!

We didn't stay too late....Elizabeth and I had to get up early the next day to head to Pacaya.

It's Easier Than It Looks!

2006-11-22T07:53:00.000-08:00

Finally! I'm able to access my blog! For some reason I've been having trouble with the site for the last 4 days. So my apologies if I told you to check out my blog and then didn't post anything. Who am I kidding!? No one reads this anyway!
I arrived in Guatemala a few days ago and I have to say, it was a very smooth ride. I got bumped to first class when I got to Houston so the flight into Guate was quite pleasurable. As soon as I got off the plane, I met a girl from upstate NY that was headed to Antigua on a shuttle. We caught up again later at Cafe Sky (the name sort of says it all) to watch the sun go down and take in the view of the volcanoes surrounding the city. Seriously, everything just fell into place. I'm so glad I didn't listen to all of the crazy warnings about how dangerous Guate is. Yes, it's not exactly safe to travel in any undeveloped country and specifically as a single woman but the scare tactics really piss me off.
I can't help but compare this place (Antigua specifically) with Nicaragua (Granada specifically). It seems so similar except that Guate is more like Nica on steriods. There's more restaurants, more backpackers, more volcano hikes....I haven't been able to discern whether this is good or bad. Guate is more developed for travelers to get around but Nica is more tranquil and then there's also the beaches....for now we'll call it a draw.
Special thanks to Mike and John...La Casa de Don Ismael is a great little spot! I just want to hug the people there everytime I see them.

Welcome to the Jungle

2006-06-04T19:55:00.000-07:00

Nestled in the Amazon basin between two major tributaries of the Amazon River, Puerto Maldonado was the start of our jungle adventure. Immediately you're hit with the remoteness of the area. After our flight in we had a 45min. van ride and a two hour boat ride to get to our lodge. Along the way we say macaws, monkeys and caimans....but very few people.

Upon arrival I was promptly greeted by a giant blue irradescent beetle zipping around my head. The bungalows were exactly the tropical cabinas that you would imagine complete with hammocks on the front porches. There was no electricity but we had cold water plumbing in our room which was a luxury compared to the facilities on the Inca Trail. After settling in we ventured out on a night walk. Given my initial beetle greeting, I have to admit I was a little jumpy. We trodded along anxiously leaning in to see giant spiders and other creepy insects...that is until Kelly grabbed my arm to direct my attention upward. Just as I looked up a massive bamboo rat ran across the bamboo over our heads (bigger than anything I saw in NYC). Insects didn't seem so bad after that.

Much of the rest of our time in the rainforest was reminiscent of summer camp....canoeing on the lake, bird watching, nature hikes and a lot of mosquitoes. While it was fascinating to see all the different species, the similarity to my backwoods upbringing was uncanny.

Slight Change of Plans

2006-05-30T15:29:00.000-07:00

This morning (after a night out at the bar and the alarm not going off) we went to the airport to catch our flight to the Amazon. Unfortunately (or fortunately) all of the flights were cancelled. Due to bad weather in Lima, none of the flights had arrived in Cusco to take us out. However, this worked out even better for Kelly and I. We were dreading an extra day in Lima at the end of our journey. We now have another day of rest in Cusco today and we go to Puerto Maldonado tomorrow...hence losing our final day in Lima. For some reason, the gods are shining upon us.

Note: this also allowed Kelly time to sober up, me to nap and both of us to get another hot shower. Life is good! (I also got to catch up on my blog!!)

On the 5th Day She Rested

2006-05-30T15:22:00.000-07:00

Back in Cusco at a second rate hotel with running water. I was able to clean up, get some sleep and finally hold solid food. The weather continues to be perfectly sunny and beautiful. Not a very exciting day....just shopping, lunching, lounging. While in the Cathedral, Kelly and I met a cute boy from DC that was traveling South America for 8 months (half Puerto Rican, half Iranian...Yummy!).

In the evening we finally hit the bar (much needed) with a guy from our group and we met up with said cute boy. After nearly a week without a drink it was nice to unwind, get buzzed up, and play darts (badly). It as also nice to see a little action even though I was sans make-up, blowdryer and nice clothes!

The Road to Machupicchu

2006-05-30T14:42:00.000-07:00

I don´t know if I can begin to explain the anxiety I was feeling as we set out to begin the Inca Trail. All of those happy hours and couch potato evenings seemed such a mistake as the guide began to describe the physical activity required over the following days. I had my gear from REI and my camera ready to capture the views, but were my legs and lungs ready for the journey before me? At this point, there really was no turning back. The sheer embarrassment of returning to tell my traveler friends that I wussed out and took the train compelled me to march onward.

Fortunately, day one wasn´t so bad. It was a little up and a little down with breaks to take in the ruins and their significance along the way (Salapunku, Llactapata, Wayllabamba). Much to our surprise, the porters that join each group really offer first class service. Don´t get me wrong, squat toilets and lack of running water are no picnic. But before you even arrive in camp the porters set up a dinning tent complete with table cloth and napkin holders. They great you at the trail with a glass of juice and they carry the bulk of all your gear. These men carry HUGE packs along the trail and pass you at neckbreak speeds. It´s really unbelievable.

After making it through day 1 we camped our first night and comfortably rested for the following day. Again, anxiety set in. Day two of the trail is the worst. You climb uphill for 5 hours before descending to the next camp. It´s called Dead Woman´s Pass for the sillouette of the mountain pass from a distance (you pass just to the left of her boob) but I was sure that it derived it´s name from the number of women, such as myself, that had never made it. It was incredibly painful but I did actually make it and surprisingly was toward the middle of my group. My legs were definitely jelly but it was the altitude that really took it´s toll. Those last 1000 or so stone steps at 13,000 feet with no railing were dizzying.

Day three we did two more passes that were somewhat easier, although still a challenge. The trail was more up and down and a lot more pleasurable. Had it not been for contracting ¨travelers sickness¨ on this day it would have been really enjoyable (hiking with a bad stomach is not good. we´ll leave it at that.) We passed several ruins (Runkuraqay, Sayamarca, Phuyupatamarca) and also managed to see a few of the wild orchids along the way.

Day four was the grand finale. We got up at 4am to make it to the sun gate before sunrise and it was worth it! We arrived at Intipunku about a half an hour before sunrise and saw Machu Picchu in the shadows of the valley below us. We sat quietly and watched as the sun slowly came over the mountain tops and drenched the terraces in sunlight. This alone made the pain of the journey worth while. Due to a landslide in the trail (currently being repaired), only those hikers that came via the Inca Trail were able to visit this spot. The remainder of the day was spent touring and exploring the ruins themselves. I also pushed my physical limits one more time and climbed the vertical trail to Huayna Picchu (unbelievable views).

We ventured back to Cusco at the end of the day via Aguas Calientes on the bus, then train, then van. I don´t think I´ve ever been so appreciative of a luke warm shower.

Pacha Mama 101

2006-05-30T14:07:00.000-07:00

Of course, I´m behind in posting. I´ve been a little bit busy but wanted to take a moment to fill in the blanks before I forget all the unique people and intricacies that I have come across over the last few days.

On Wed. we left Cusco to explore the Sacred Valley. When I say explore, please don´t take that too seriously. Because we´re on a tour our ¨exploration¨ tended to be quite scheduled and organized. It was really amazing none-the-less. The views from the road alone were breathtaking. Everywhere you look there are beautiful mountain scenes, fields that look like patchwork, golden terraces built into the mountainsides and snow capped mountains in the distance. Occasionally we stopped to take pictures and soak in the scenery. At these stopping points/look-outs, there were always local people there with their children all dressed up in costume and their llamas waiting for the gringos to take their picture for a few soles.

Along the way we stopped at a GAP project supporting the local people (women weave all day while the men are employed as porters for the trail), the Incan ruins of Pisac (saw an Incan cemetary where mummies were laid to rest along with their mummified puppy friends in little holes carved out of a cliff), a pottery shop (horribly touristy with pottery that looked like it was made by kindergarteners), and a local chicha establishment (chicha is fermented corn beer that the locals drink in giant glasses while discussing current events each evening. The smell alone is hard to stomach). The highlight of the day was arriving in Ollantaytambo where we took in more impressive ruins and the fascinating little pueblo.

Ollantaytambo is a small town in the mountains; a portion of which is built on original Incan foundations. Even though it is a gathering place for travelers hitting the Inca Trail, if you head away from the main square you can see a glimpse of what life is like for the local people. I was lucky enough to spend some time doing this and interacting with a few of the local people not entrenched in the tourist business. This is the first place I´ve ever traveled that I really get the feeling that the way of life here is truly lost in time. So many of the indiginous people here really do things they way they´ve been done for hundreds of years despite the fact that they have tourists outside their door everyday. So much of Latin American culture is heavily influenced by Spanish conquest or US interests but here it seems that they are able to tune much of it out and continue their own way of life.

One of my favorite memories of this trip will be playing hopscotch in the square with the local girls. I couldn´t tell which they were laughing harder at....my Spanish or my hopscotch skills.

Higher Heights

2006-05-24T17:48:00.000-07:00

We were up before the ass crack of dawn yesterday....seriously, we left the hotel by 4am to catch our flight to Cusco. While I was not a happy camper at the time, I think they do this in order to get you acclimated to the altitude for a longer period. So by 8am we were all sitting in our Cusco hotel, tired as hell and spinning from the high altitude. The magical cure for this, of course, is coca tea. A three hour nap and many cups of the coca tea really hit the spot. (By the way, does anyone know if coca leaves -either chewed or taken in tea- will show up on my 3M drug test that I take the day I get back? Its probably fine but I´m just curious)

Cusco is a major improvement over Lima. The polution is limited to very heavy auto exhaust and the views are spectacular. I explored the city for the afternoon and met a few of the local characters. One of these characters is apparently very popular. Shes a sweet old Andino woman who was sitting in the plaza. I stopped to talk with her and after a while asked if I could take her photo. She was very pleasant and interesting to talk to as she was working a spool of wool as we chatted. As we walked away, Kelly said to me "she looks just like the woman from my (guide) book". Of course many of the traditionally dressed woman from rural areas look similar here. However, over lunch we took a gander at Kelly´s book and sure enough, my new friend Anecita was featured in one of the color photos!

Later in the day, we met Josa. She was kind enough to take us through the local market and explain all of the local delicacies such as cow head and intestines, frogs, and other nasty animal parts. There were also herbs for the local shamen and mummified puppies...just for fun (not really, from what I gather, the Incan descendants burry them with their dead to guide them to their newly reincarnated position in life)

The food has contiued to be excellent. I guess after traveling in Central America my expectations were pretty low. The altitude sickness also wore off pretty quickly which was a big bonus.

Redemption

2006-05-22T20:44:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Peru late last night and woke up early this morning ready to explore. The sun was shining through the smog and all was good in the world. So off we went through the streets and plazas of Lima with great ethusiasm. By lunchtime, we were ready for a cocktail! The smog and traffic of central Lima overshadow the beauty of any of the architechture or open plazas. We headed to the coast for a breath of fresh air and some ceviche. Now this is where the city of Lima shines...the food and drink. We sat at a restaurant on a cliff overlooking the Pacific and feasted on the best ceviche Ive ever tasted, scallops with cheese, and marinated beef heart kebobs (yes, heart). Along with that, the ladies and I decided to partake in the local specialty cocktail, the pisco sour. These drinks dont seem like much more than a vodka sour or a really tangy margarita but they are quite potent, or at least the ones at our lunch spot of choice were. After 1/2 a drink I could feel it in my head. This wasnt a usual kind of drunk (which Im quite accustomed to lately), this was more like a high....it goes straight to your head. After just 2 of these wonderful little concoctions we were laughing like three stoned little school girls.
I would not recommend more than a day or two in Lima but the one redeeming quality of this city is most certainly the food (along with, perhaps, friendly taxi drivers). After our feast at lunch, we also had quite a spread for dinner starting with boiled potatoes with a spicy cheese sauce (I cant remember what its called) followed by arroz con mariscos (the seafood is excellent here) and Tacu Tacu con pescado y mariscos (a rice and beans mixture over a giant sole fillet all covered in a creamy seafood sauce).....Yummy Goodness!

Tomorrow morning we are off to Cusco and bigger, better adventures!

Bienvenidos!

2006-05-20T08:53:00.000-07:00

Welcome to my new blog.....

Bon Voyage my friends! I'm off on another adventure. Not only am I leaving for Peru tomorrow morning, I've also accepted a new job with 3M. While both are new adventures, they are almost a complete contradiction.

I'm spending 2 weeks exploring Peru; starting in Lima. Then it's on to Cusco, 4 days of hiking on the Inca Trail, and Machu Picchu. From there we head to the Amazon for a few days of extreme humidity, exotic birds/animals and lots of skeeters.

The other half of my new adventure is a position in corporate America. Upon my return from Peru, I'll be wrapping things up at Ryan and entering a life of corporate slavery. No more window office. No more hoodies and flip flops. No more beer fridge down the hall. This is serious business. I'll be managing all aspects of consumer communication for TAMS (that's Taping and Masking Systems for you mere mortals). Exciting right?! Not really, but it's the largest consumer business at 3M and a good opportunity.

Perhaps I should just stay in Peru? Marry an Andean flute player and knit Alpaca wool hoodies? Nah, I'll probably come back. :)